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Peak Mountain 3

2nd Apron, Right Side Dihedral

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Description

This route climbs the big, obvious dihedral right of the

2nd Apron, Right Side

route shown in yellow in the picture. This route is to the

right of the yellow line

in the topo to the right. I thought this was the

Right Side

route until the picture with the lines drawn in was posted on the site.

P1: The start is about

40 feet right of the

Right Side

route

. Climb up easy slab with lots of small ledges to a big dihedral system. Pass a small ledge and move left into the start of the dihedral. Belay at a stance near the end of your rope. 5.4 190'

P2: Climb the dihedral. Fun steep climbing past occasional loose flakes - be careful what you pull on. Climb past a sloping ledge on the left to a fantastic ledge on the right a few feet higher. 5.4 185'

P3: Climb the dihedral until it peters out, and then move left into another dihedral. Jam up a steep fun crack to a good ledge. 5.4 180'

P4: Climb the dihedral (a pattern emerges). Move left across the slab to yet another dihedral and then wander up to a huge ledge with lots of loose rocks. One could also continue up the dihedral until it forms a small roof, and pull over that. This was wet when I was on it. 5.5 110'

P5: Could be run together with the last pitch, but not recommended because of the large loose blocks on the big ledge. Climb easily up to a short headwall and the top. The line of least resistance is likely 5.2, but a huge number of variations are possible.

Protection

Set and a half of stoppers, Aliens are nice, nothing bigger than a 2 Camalot. The pitches are long, so plan acccordingly.