Englishman's Crack

Climb overhanging crack and finish on

Easily Flakey.

1st 5.11 in the New.

Start in the flaring off-width with wide hand-jams in the back of the crack. Work your way up to the stance underneath the roof/overhang, pull the crux. Pull the crux by either continuing hand jamming the offwidth-ness of the crack, or throw a heel in there and mantle off of the crimps out right and stab for the pod to the left of the crack. Throw in a hand jam, pull one last hard move, then follow the wide crack to the EF anchor.

route immediately right of easily flakey at obvious overhanging hand/fist crack

Big fist and smaller gear. Bolted anchor.  Though the Easily Flaky portion of the route is significantly easier than Englishman's, you'll want to bring an extra #4 or two to protect it.