Pleiades

Maybe it's FA bias, but Matt and I thought Pleiades to be an exceptional route, with both pitches offering great rock, interesting movement, and devious cruxes with just enough "thank god" holds to make it go.

P1: Start in the chimney left of

Verachocha

, stem up a couple moves until you can place a high #4, and move out left to a splitter tips crack. This crack is NOT flared: a rarity in this canyon! Utilize stems and heel hooks to get into the thin crack (10+) which opens up to good fingers and gets you to a alcove rest. Continue past good hands until the crack seams out. Move right 5 feet and climb hard-to-protect slab past a thin seam to a ledge and belay.

P2: Follow

Verachocha

up a right-trending crack for 20 feet, again place a high #4, and traverse- right this time- into a tips splitter that widens as you go. This one is very flared. Make strenuous finger, rings, and thin hand jams (5.11) before the crack thins out again forcing desperate throws out left to miraculous sidepulls. Mantle up, and enjoy mellow finger jams before joining

Verachocha's

5.9ish handcracks to the rim.

In between

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and

Dual Reality

. Look for the obvious chimney-to-tips-splitter on the first pitch. The line then crosses over

Veracocha

to the right on the second pitch.

Doubles from tips to #3, with a #4.