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Peak Mountain 3

1978 Bracksieck/Mallow Route

FA George Bracksieck and Cathy Mallow
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is a climb I led in 10/21/78. It is located on the right side of the rock and begins on the ground, just left of an obvious, short, two-tiered, left-facing dihedral that has a consistently hand-sized crack. (See the photo posted for "

Left-Facing Dihedral

.")

Climb up blobby rock, with no pro, angling right to meet the exit of "

Left-Facing Dihedral

." Belay on the big, grassy ledge about 40 feet up.

Climb straight up lower-angled, featured terrain, then angle right to the top of the big, HIGH left-facing dihedral. We belayed at a small (but not tiny) conifer on a ledge. This route crosses

Unknown 9+

here. That route's bolted station lies to the left of the tree, but it isn't useful to belay the short, steep top section of the HIGH left-facing dihedral.

Climb the short, crux left-facing dihedral (bomber medium stopper and hex placements, or an unnecessary new bolt; old-school 5.7, if dry) to a big ledge, then continue to the top of the cliff. We walked off, although there is now a bolted anchor.

Protection

SR, including a medium Hex for crux on third pitch.