Sand Tears

The route begins with a 5.11 move over the undercut Dewey Bridge sandstone. This is protected with small cams that quickly widen. Be warned that the opening moves require extremely off-balanced stemming above the overhand on thin fingers and the position really makes your body want to barndoor off! Placing gear here is tricky.

The crack quickly widens to #0.75 C4s and #2 on an overhanging lieback/jam flake, then up to #3s on a less overhanging to vertical section (5.10+). This transitions to a short low angle section of #3.5-#4s that Bjornstad described as a loose offwidth. I found butterfly stacks useful here to better weld my rattly fist jams in as the crack gets very sandy here, but the feet are easy.

The crack ends at a good ledge on the left and a single drilled angle with bail tat. You can see an old drilled hole nearby. Bjornstad describes doing a one-rope rappel from this fixed piton.

The area across the highway from the La Sal Mountains Viewpoint has two promontories. Hike to the north side of the norther one. This is the first crack encountered as you walk west from the tip.

In C4s: Singles #0.3-#2, triples of #3, single #3.5 (or #4 DMM Dragon), single #4 C4.