New Hips Face

Great quality route that climbs the slabby face to the right of Gimpy Arete and starts out at the same spot as New Hips corner.  An easy start gets you to a tricky move down low to gain the seam in the lower face (small cam necessary to protect this move). Easier climbing through the middle of the face with big holds and ledges gets you up to a bolt.  Gear is good here except for the last stretch getting to the first bolt which is slightly runout.  The bolt is oddly positioned out right and slightly awkward to clip.  Two more bolts up left get you to the bolted anchor.  To keep it at 8+, move out left after clipping the 2nd bolt and finish on Gimp's Arete with one more bolt on the face before the anchor.5.10 variation: instead of moving left to the arete at the 2nd bolt, climb straight up the smooth face.  Balancey with thin holds and small feet.

Standard rack to 2" plus cams smaller than a 0.3 C4 (red C3/black totem/blue metolius works) for the start. 3 bolts protect the upper face. Tricams work well for some of the flaring pockets in the middle.