- Edit (TBD)
Description
START- 10 ft right of Madigan with a bolt 12 ft up.
P1 - Climb up to the bolt then on past a right-curving flake (gear) and straight up to bolt #2 then on to the double bolt anchors. 90 ft 5.5 - 5.6 For variety, at bolt #2 it's about 5.5 to the right, 5.6 straight over the bolt, and a bit harder (5.6+/5.7- ?) 2 ft left of the bolt.
We did a P2 and a P3. Whether P2 is actually the second pitch of Brown School I'm not sure, but very probably it is, as there's really nothing else in the neighborhood. P3 climbed just left of a route with several bolts, and "intercepted" that route at its top bolt.
"P2" - Climb up past bolt #1. At the 2nd (or 3rd ??) bolt, avoid moving left to the piton in the right-facing corner, but climb over the bolt very slightly to the right. Pass at least one more bolt to the dbl bolt anchor, a bit left. 80-90 ft 5.6 or so
"P3" - Up and a bit right to a crack/flake that trends right. Up this ( gear, #2, #1 Camalots) to an obvous 6-8 inch overlap. The overlap sounded quite hollow so I did not place any gear in it, lest a fall initiate sharing the fall with rock. Over the overlap. There is a line of bolts on your right, one of which looked inviting to clip but seemed "a bit too far". Continue up the slab 20-25 ft to the final bolt of the series, clip it and then move up and left to the belay. 70-80 ft 5.5-5.6 R-ish.
Rap: 3 raps with a single rope. We had a 70m, a 60m would work. The longest rap was P1 anchor to the ground, about 90 - 95 ft.
Location
10 ft right of Madagan
Protection
Mid-sized cams