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Peak Mountain 3

Best In Show

FA Michelle Leber, John Collis
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Best in Show is undoubtedly the alpha dog splitter up here. The second pitch is a forty meter thin hands crack requiring lots of thumb endurance and a backpack full of number 1's. Get on it.

The first pitch of this route was an established climb listed only as "Unnamed 5.11" in the Kelley book. First ascent Dave Mealey? We found this pitch to be an interesting adventure unto itself. After adding a second bolt to the first anchor, cleaning a few perched blocks off of this pitch and trunding two massive flakes off of pitch 2, this route was extended for another 200+ feet.

P1 — There seem to be a few different options for reaching the crack system on this pitch. We chose to traverse from the far left. This seems like easier and more solid climbing, but does set up the follower to do the first moves off the ground completely unprotected. A more direct option seemed possible but the rock looked more suspect. After traversing, make a few thin crack and face moves up to the thin hands splitter to a two bolt anchor on the left. 5.11, 25 meters

P2 — The $$$ pitch. Not a lot of route finding here. Climb the sick crack forever. 5.11+, 40 meters

P3 — An awesome bonus splitter. The crack narrows down here and while this pitch is a lot shorter than the previous one, it packs a punch. 5.11+, 15 meters

Descent — Rap the route. Getting down pitch 2 will require either an 80 meter rope or 2 60's and it's steeper than it looks. Make sure to maintain some swing so that you can make it to the anchor at the bottom or consider having the first rappeler place a few directional cams

Location

From the top of the approach "trail" head left to where the wall turns to face due south. The second pitch is obvious and gets all day sun.

Protection

.2- #1 camalot for P1. 1x .4 and 9-12x #1 camlot for P2. 3-4 each .75- #1 camalot for P3.


Routes in Dog Wall


  1. 1
    Best In Show
    5.11+
    Trad