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Peak Mountain 3

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Description

This crazy dike and crack feature makes for a fun pitch of climbing and a worthy addition to any day up at Westworld Dome for those seeking a little adventure. From below, the climb appears steep for the grade - and it is - but enormous jugs allow easy passage and a crack paralleling the dike allows for generally excellent protection (I advise caution slinging the dike itself as it is hollow for much of it's length).Begin with an easy scramble up a slab to a zig-zagging wide crack. Above this gain the astonishing dike and follow it to the top where a tat anchor allows rapping back to the ground.

Location

The dike is located on the south face of Westworld Dome about midway between Warpaint and Dreamscape Buttress. It is directly behind Garlic Dome and thus obscured from view until you're right at the base. Garlic Dome also provides some shade at the base and start of the route.There are three logical ways to approach this climb:1) Climb a route on Garlic Dome. The rap off the back will deposit you at the base of the dike.2) Climb this route immediately before or after Dreamscape Buttress. You will have to scramble up into the notch between Westworld Dome and Garlic Dome to reach the climb.3) Approach from Warpaint/Coatimundi Corner. This is an amazing little scramble (if you're into this sort of thing) that includes an unlikely deep, dark tunnel - bring a headlamp! From the alcove that is home to Coati Corner, scramble around to climber's right and up a beautiful boulder-filled enclosure that is actually formed by the southeastern flank of Westworld Dome and the eastern edge of Garlic Dome. The back of this area appears to be blocked by an enormous buttress, but closer examination will reveal two clefts on each side. Enter the righthand cleft. 4th class (perhaps with a move or two of non-exposed 5th) scrambling up this dark passage will gain an open bushy area above. Some easy bushwhacking, route-finding, and a couple little 5th class steps (if you come across anything more difficult look around for an easier way) eventually lead to the high notch between Westworld Dome and Garlic Dome and the start of the climb. Total time from Coatimundi Corner to the route is 10-15 minutes not factoring in route finding.

Protection

1x to #3 Camalot. A 70m rope will get you most of the way down but you'll have to downclimb the short, easy slab at the base.