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MapDescription
This is a great crack climb which you will enjoy if you like cracks. The first pitch is a hand crack, and the second pitch is a bigger crack which can be liebacked in some places. You should save your #4 Camalot for about 3/4s of the way up the second pitch. You can get to the top of the rock from the end of the second pitch, but it is not recommended.
Location
This route is on the east face of the rock. It is to the right of
Sills' Route
, and it starts up a hand crack. You get down from bolt anchors on both pitches.
Protection
A standard rack up to a #4 Camalot. Extra #2 and #3 Camalots are good to have but not absolutely necessary. There are bolt anchors. The first shared with
Sills' Route
.
Routes in South Noddle Head (Fourth Noddle Head)
- 3Too High to Die5.8Trad