- Edit (TBD)
Description
Moderate fun direct line up the southeast slabs. Can keep the climbing easier than 5.5 for sure, but can seek out some slightly harder moves if wanted.
Pitch 1: Start near a large tree at the base and aim for the next large tree about a hundred feet up on a large ledge. Belay off the tree. (100 feet)
Pitch 2: Continue working up the slabs until you reach another large ledge. You can either belay off a tree higher up or build a gear anchor in a large horizontal crack. (150 feet)
Pitch 3: Untie and scramble up to the start of pitch 3 at the highest large tree on the ledge. Continue heading up the slabs aiming for trees for anchors. I believe this pitch I made a gear anchor. (200 feet)
Pitch 4: Continue up the slabs. I believe a 70m rope allows you to reach another tree. (200 feet)
Pitch 5: Continue to the top with large trees and belay from there. (180 feet)
Descent: Can bail from the ledge at the top of pitch 2 with an easy walkoff to the northeast. Otherwise walk off to the northeast from the summit to a lower grade Class 3-4 slab. Can either walk off the slab on the most featured terrain or rappel off a tree with some tat and two chain links. Once on the ground descend the gully back to the start of the route or back to the trail. Stay high in the gully to avoid bushwacking, but there really is no good option.
Location
Cut right off the main trail at a small campsite with a large boulder. Cross the creek on fallen trees or ford if the water is low. Ascend the talus field heading up and left. Eventually hit dense shrubs and bushwack through, trending climbers left through the narrowest part. Once through, ascend the steep ridge to the base of the dome. Or can take the approach for The Free Lament coming off the trail from past Blackfoot Dome.
Protection
All gear, no bolts, tree and gear anchors.