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Peak Mountain 3

Sparerib

FA Pat Callis, Jim Kanzler, October 1968
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route is amazing. The crux is on the second pitch. For 5.8, it is very exposed but well worth the hike and effort. I can't say that there is anything bad about this route. To find the route look for the "tallest and most prominent clean rib/buttress on the Sparerib formation." There are two sets of double cracks that divide the west face of this rib.

P1

. (5.6) Climb right through the middle of the buttress along a beautiful 2' wide groove ending on an ample ledge. Bolted anchor. (50')

P2.

In this superb pitch, follow the right hand set of double cracks past two small overhangs (crux) then end at the top of the rib. Two bolts for an anchor. (150')

Descent

: Walk off either side of the buttress.

Location

Sparerib is its own formation.

Protection

Bring a standard rack plus a #4. Bolts atop the 2nd pitch with chains. Bolts on top of the formation for belay, but walk off is mandatory.