- Edit (TBD)
Description
Scramble up some ledges and pull onto the slab. The rock quality is impressive for the slab, and the moves are fun. Move up the increasingly steep rock to the joint of the overhanging arrette/fin. Clip the last two bolts in the overhang, and bust through a burly boulder problem, following the line straight up from the last bolt. Safest to stay off of the fin 6 feet to your left - the rock seems a little more rotten there (although it would probably make for easier climbing, but the obvious line is harder, more fun, and on good rock).
Once you've reached the top, traverse right to the anchor. Let out a good yell to show the locals how strong you are.
If you're lacking the cannonballs to lead, the TR isn't a good idea. If you blow it above the last bolt (at the crux) you're going to smack into the dihedral on your right. Probably a better idea to just enjoy punting into space on overhanging glue-ins.
Location
The top cliff band that houses the rest of Above Anthrax has an obvious break about 100' to the South of "Who is Bernd Arnold? (5.8)". This is just left (South) of the impressive roof. The break in the cliff is punctuated by a huge fin sticking out of a green dihedral on the top right wall - that's your climb! Scramble through slippery pine needles to the bottom of the slab. It's easiest to belay from the trail, not the ledges.
Protection
7 bots to lower off. Glue ins!
Routes in 10. Above Anthrax
- 1Pretty Piece of Flesh5.11dSport