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Peak Mountain 3

Prestidigitator

FA Isaac Caldiero
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

An awesome route climbed by Dave Graham and Joe Kinder. The movement is amazing, super boulder. It starts with solid 5.12 climbing then goes into a 10 to 15 foot v9/10 boulder problem then finishes with probably 5.12 climbing for 5 or 6 moves. The rock is good but sharp. You will probably want tape. Supposedly when the first ascent was done the arête wasn't used and it was 13.d or 14.a but now it seems like the arête is used more commonly and seems to be 13.cish. A great route climbed by some legends. Its thought to have only around 10 ascents.

Location

Follow directions to the drone wall. The obvious line on the arête of the wall just left of beeleave. Look for 4 blue metal perma-draws.

Protection

7 or 8 draws with the roof being perma-drawed. You will need 3 or 4 to clip the bottom part of the climb and 2 draws to clip the chains. No permanent clips on the chains.