20 Year Plan

A tough campus start gets you into the thin hands followed by a big move where the crack welds shut. More painful jams and glassy feet lead out left through the roof to a full rest in the corner. The last crux requires balance, crimping, and arete pinching to get around the second corner to the easy headwall.Don't bother packing the rack for The Tunnel.The end of this obvious climb was bolted by John Hymer "over 20 years ago." He couldn't complete the climb as he had broken both his hands and jamming was too painful, I guess no one else was interested. John highly recommended bolting the whole thing but I was keen on trying to keep it mixed since it's a jam-able crack. I cleaned it on aid and climbed it to the anchors on gear. There was no way to stop cams from literally popping out of the roof section under just body weight. The rock has a brittle surface and is quite slick. I'd be hanging on the rope on a textbook placement then the cam would just rip and I'd go flying. After taking a few head shots and some near ground rippers, I accepted John was totally right and I Euro-bolted the crack. -KB

Obvious crack right of the detached block

6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor