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Peak Mountain 3

36. Matrix (aka Buck Angel Crack)

FA Bolts had been chopped in the late 90's, originally equipped by A.L. & S.E.. Re-cleaned by L.P., N.P., P.P., J.J., J.K.; anchors installed by L.P. .
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Description

This route starts directly below the short section of fist crack 8' off the ground and 10' right of the bolts on Resurrection. Climb through the fist crack to a mantel of sorts, which gains you access to great gear in the finger crack above. Bust a move left through a compression sequence followed by a devious crux that is equal parts power and balance. Once through the crux you will be rewarded with good gear and eventually a no hands rest. The rest of the route is more moderate, around 10+ but requires a full arsenal of techniques and stays with you.

100 feet, trad + anchors.

Location

The route lies close to the far right side of the cliff, 15' left of Wine Line and 10' right of Resurrection

Protection

Rack consists of small to fist sized cams, double up on #1 Camelot size and below


Routes in Main Wall


  1. 46
    36. Matrix (aka Buck Angel Crack)
    5.11c
    Trad