- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is endurance crimping on consistently good but inobvious holds. Climb up to the first bolt, and hang a long runner on this before the exciting traverse right to the next bolt (5.9+?, R), place another long sling, then head up to the next several bolts, tending slightly left to a 2-bolt anchor. The crux is not that hard, but it is high and requires some endurance to get without a hang.
Location
Scramble up to a spot on a small ledge below the first bolt or approach this climb from uphill, scrambling up a short bit of rack, then down and over 20 meters on a sloping ledge to reach the spot below the first bolt (no gear here for a belay).
Protection
4 bolts, some are far between, so heads-up! 2 bolt anchor.
The anchor was 2 vertically-aligned bolts with single smash-links and shitty webbing connecting them. The old tat was replaced with a fat, tied sling, and a biner was added and now the anchor is a little more friendly. Still, it would be best if someone took up a few rapid links and chain (about 8" total) and hung the top bolt down to parallel with the second bolt and added a link to the lower bolt to make it stand off the cliff instead of locking off the rope as it is pulled.
Routes in Ridge 1 aka Stairway to Heaven
- 17Armed Forces5.10dSport