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Peak Mountain 3

Center Face

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Description

This is the climb up the middle wall avoiding the cracks on either side. It's an "Unnamed V2" in the book, but really the first 15 ft climb more like V4 (and it looks even harder!) Not sure if something broke?

Most people will need to start with a bit of a hop to get off the ground. Grab a weird sloping blob, and then the really good pocket just above that. Stand up high using a tiny crimp or some other desperate features on the left side of the golden patina. Then grab a good undercling and hang on. Much easier climbing on solid holds leads the rest of the way up the tall vertical face.

It's kinda hard to grade the upper section. I don't think any moves are harder than maybe 5.8, but it has the potential to get pumpy if you spend too long feeling around for the good pockets. If you have any doubt, try it on a rope first. I rapped in to preview and put some chalk on the good holds before bouldering it.

Location

Between two obvious corner cracks is a face wide enough for one problem. The "Pig Snout" wall is to the left and "The Hole" wall is to the right.