We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

Forced Retirement

FA Unknown
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Make delicate moves on steep friction to a narrow mantle shelf above a small bulge (crux). Clip a bolt and continue up easier slab, passing small gear in the vertical cracks on your left.  Climb to a tree ledge directly above with gear under a small overlap.  Clip a bolt on the next face above the tree ledge and either climb the face to a two-bolt anchor or step left for a slightly easier romp up the arete to the anchor.  There is a bolt half way up this face that can be used to protect either variation.This anchor is well placed for top rope laps with a 60 m rope.Note: With crux moves off the ground, a stick clip could come in handy for the first bolt.*FA party intends to continue the adventure upwards from this anchor and will post an update when applicable.

Location

About 20 minutes past the great corner along the approach trail.  If you reach Ethan's Delight, you've gone about 100' too far.

Protection

3 bolts and small gear. There's a bomber placement for a 00. Good placement for an offset #3 if you have it, but not really necessary.


Routes in Ethan's Delight


  1. 1
    Forced Retirement
    5.10
    Trad