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Peak Mountain 3

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Description

This is the old route on the right flank of the steep western buttress of Shoshoni. (The Dieckhoff-Lowe Route is to the left.) It's been a long time since I did it (1995), but I remember it having some good 5.8 to 5.9 climbing. We pretty much followed our noses, and on the fourth pitch we found a ladder of ancient ring pitons poking out of a steep headwall. Anyone know when this was done first?

Plan for at least one or two pitches to traverse the ridge after you finish the steep climbing. My topo from that day says something about, "You could climb the first gendarme directly or climb a bit and then move left or right. We traversed low on 5.8 or so, scary. (Storm.)" Caveat lector. It does seem from photos that tackling the upper gendarme and ridge directly would add a significant amount of climbing distance and probably quality.

Protection

Standard alpine rack.