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Peak Mountain 3

Black Betty

FA Linda Engle & Annik Martin, June 2018; bolted by Chris Barnes
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This climb follows the gully system between between American Beauty and Sea of Joy.  The first pitch works up a series of short faces to ledges and stances (5.6).  The second pitch (5.7) continues on steeper rock and works up really interesting runnels and sculpted grey limestone with the occasional chert hold thrown in.  Worth doing for the second pitch.

Location

Starts about 10 feet right of "Fire and Rain".  Right most route on American Beauty.

Protection

10 or 12 bolts per pitch. Chain anchors at the top of pitch one and sport anchors at the top of pitch two. One 60 meter rope to get off in one lower and one rappel.

Note: With a 60 meter rope, it is possible to combine the two pitches into one long lead and lower off the sport anchors back to to the ptich 1 chain anchors.  Then you can belay your second to the top of the second pitch and  lower them to the chain anchors or back to the ground.  Then you pull the rope, thread the chain anchors and rappel to the ground.