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Peak Mountain 3

Pins Route

FA Harvey Carter (?)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

I am unsure of the true route name and first ascensionist, but my guess is it was first done by Harvey C. or the Army. This is an old and forgotten route with easy crumbly slab through a fun, short, blocky bulge and headwall with mostly questionable rock and equally questionable pro (PG-13). Pro is supplemented with some small to medium gear and, from what I could find, 5 very old looking pitons (pins). Sparse gear can be found. Finish by moving slightly right at the 3rd pin, then directly above by using long cord/sling to anchor off of the large tree.

Location

Start by wandering up the crumbly slab left of the large pine at the base up to the left-arching roof, and go straight up to the big tree above.

Protection

A 70m rope is needed. 5 quickdraws for the old pins, gear from 0.5 to 1.5 inches. A

70m gets you to a chossy ledge with easy scrambling if you and belayer are up the slab climber's right and extend your anchors at least a few feet off the tree.

Or better yet, belay the 2nd up, and walk off to the west.


Routes in Roadside South Face


  1. 1
    Pins Route
    5.8
    Trad