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Peak Mountain 3

Shamu

FA Joel Torretti
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Shamoo is one of the top ten boulder problems of Mt Gretna. It embodies all of what diabase climbing is about: small holds, balance and most importantly technique. Shamoo climbs the striking seam and left arete on the most prominent boulder in the area.

Begin easily enough by laybacking up the left arete whilst smearing. Work your way into a position where you will be spanning between the arete and crack with your hands and no feet.

Hike the left foot up to nearly nothing, perch for all you are worth and reach up high left to a tiny, nearly unusable sidepull. Stomp the right smear up, no up further. Then fire out right for the opening in the crack. Hug the features for another move, then topout easily.

Location

Large boulder with the striking seam Heaven (V8) and a blunt left arete. Cant miss it.

Protection

Two pads and a spotter