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Peak Mountain 3

Jesus Wouldn't Climb It

FA Darren Smith?, 2020
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Description

The crux is getting off the ground and into the crack. From there, some nice offwidth technique gets you higher. Then there is a jug followed by some face holds which allow you to reach the top.

It's actually a pretty interesting climb, but the lack of an easy TR anchor make it a bit of logistical effort. Still if you're an offwidth zealot, it's pretty fun and a way to get out of the sun.

There is a good chance it was climbed before, but I couldn't find any evidence in the San Luis Valley book or MP (and it is a bit hidden). Let's update the FA if we hear otherwise.

Location

Head into the side canyon before the virgin painting towards "

How The West Was Won

". Stay on the trail, stay left at

HTWWW

, go 50 feet more, and then semi-bushwhack to another side canyon on the left. People go this way to scramble up to the top to put up TRs on things like "

Not My Cross To Bear

". See the beta topo. Note, there is a slot canyon before this that has some inferior OW climbs and a harder chimney to the top.

The route will be on the left, and you can identify it by the lack of a crack at the bottom with a nice rail on the right side to help get you up into the crack.

Protection

I used a single Merlin 8 and a #6 with a pre-placed anchor at the top (green and blue Big Bros with a tree way back as a backup). If you don't have an 8, a bouldering pad would work, because once you get into the crack (only a few feet off the ground), you can easily get to the #6 placement.


Routes in Penitente - Inner Canyon


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