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Peak Mountain 3

Book of Andy

FA Dave Baker and George Smith, 1982
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A prominent crack line in the shape of a Z, 1st zigging up and left in a low angle wide crack/ramp, then zagging back right through a cruxy bulge to more secure jams terminating in a roof where you zig back left, either under the roof or over its top. Continue above the roof left and up a corner that brings you to the ridge.

You can either rap from anchors visible just below you on the northeast side of the ridge with a 60m (inconvenient - you'll be on the opposite side of the tower from your packs) or else ascend the ridge 40' or so to the southwest to bolted anchors atop a bolted line. From here a double rope rap brings you right back to where you started.

Location

The southwest face of Hawk Pinnacle. You can reach it by heading up the gulley splitting Buzzard's Roost from Hawk Pinnacle. It will be high up the gulley on the left.

Protection

Doubles in cams 3/4"-3" and a critical 1/4" nut. 4" cams as desired on initial wide crack fully visible from the ground. One is probably fine.


Routes in Hawk Pinnacle