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A hidden gem. Scramble up the dirty gully left of Sweet and Sticky and climb the moderate arete past a few bolts. Finagle a tricky section, then cruise through aesthetic moves past several bolts to a decent ledge. Take a few breaths here before the difficulties commence. Working both sides of the arete, boulder up to a perch on the corner, then crank up and right to a stance under a little roof. Pause to ponder your escape; then slap and squeeze back left on terrible feet. A looming, textured bulge guards the anchors -- race past it to the top, fighting the ever-mounting temptation to grab the chains.
Routes in Midland
- 1Lay of the Land5.12aSport