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Peak Mountain 3

East Face/Pellea

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Description

This is one of the better east face routes that I have done in the Flatirons. I gave this route a "s" rating even though none of the guide books give it this rating. The two cruxs on the climb have 20-30 foot runouts on them, but the rock is clean and the holds are small but plentiful. Begin about 50feet from the southern edge of the rock.

P1: Angle up to the left passing a small tree. Pass the bulge near the left edge of the rock. This is the crux (5.5), the slab climbing is wonderful here, but your last piece is 20-30 feet below you. This should add to the experience.

P2: We angled up to the right along a crack system and belayed above an offwidth crack.

P3: Head straight up the runout slab and head to the left edge of the rock when you get to the next bulge that traverses the rock. Pass the bulge near the southern edge of the rock near a 18 inch pot hole. (5.4) Follow a crack system on the prow to the summit.

Descent: Sling a thread with a ~9 foot sling and rap 60 feet to the west.

Protection

Gear to 2 inches, webbing for the rap.


Routes in Pellaea


  1. 1
    East Face/Pellea
    5.5
    Trad