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Peak Mountain 3

Squeal on Demand

FA Bill Robbins, Marlene Ford & Jim Yoder, 1997
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

I did not know what this was when I tried it out and would guess it to be 10a. Once again, maybe not climbed in a long time. There is the narrow trail that is directly above the Henhouse wall, so I was very mindful of dropping loose rock or making sure no one was below when I did. And yes barely touching stuff was flying, football sized and some larger stuff I avoided. There is a terrifying block perched on a short column mid way up that looks like it will just slide off. A good climb other then that. 4 star crack on the upper half.

This will be a 3 star route when it gets cleaned.

Location

It is difficult to figure out what is what on this wall. Prom Night is just west with chain anchor and a pink piton on the route.There is a broken column on the left side of this with scary block on it. But don't confuse it with another scary block on broken column further west which much larger.

Protection

starts finger sized, goes to fist at the top. I thought about adding a anchor but this and the surrounding detached columns lean out at the top, not really sure how they still stand

.Easy to belay on top and either use chain anchor 30' west or go down 3rd gully .