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MapDescription
As classic as they come. Start in a chimney and stem your way up, using gear for the start and eventually clipping two bolts before blasting out onto the Arete. Amazing face climbing with good rests will take you to the chains. Stand on top of the summit for full value.
Location
Might be easier to approach from the saddle between Baby Eagle and South Eagle, if you’re over there already, like if you were mid “Triple Adu”...just saying. Otherwise from the base of South Eagle Beak and the route Parallax, simply hike uphill staying close to the dome till you get to the saddle I mentioned above. Some 4th class scrambling will get you up into the notch where the climb starts.
Protection
Bolts, gear to 3” for the start
Routes in South Eagle Beak
- 1South Eagle Beak Arete5.9Sport