- Edit (TBD)
Description
A mix of crack and face climbing make this route a super-pleasure! Most of the guide books say to start in the middle-to-left part of the face, although it is possible to start in the crack on the right and traverse to the left. At any rate, a series of thought-provoking and interesting moves lead to a short finger-crack that splits the face. Embrace the crack with good finger-locks, or go one-hand-in, one-hand-out to reach the top of the crack. Continue up the face to shuts.
This route is a bit tricky/heady at the start, but can be adequately protected throughout.
Location
The route is on a large face, climber's left from Gemini cracks. This route is best identified by locating the short crack (10-15 feet) that splits the face.
Protection
Nuts and cams to 1". If you traverse from the right, a 2" piece is helpful in the wide crack. Bring a handful of slings to avoid rope drag. Shuts at top.