Giligan's Way Home

This route was originally bolted and climbed by Ryan Cowen and Phillip Street sometime around 2007. It sat unclimbed for many years until 2017. Jay Myers and I added the four pitch variation “The Skipper” pitch in October of 2017 and freed the whole route in November. The route takes a journey up amazing golden granite with very little choss. It gets full sun for most of the day, so climb it when the temps are cold.

To access the route, you can either rappel in or hike down the Curcanti Creek Trail. I would recommend rappelling in, as the hike to the base of the route sucks. To find the rappels and top of route, go to the farthest west over look, and look over the edge on looker's left side. Locate a small tree, and descend down to it. The anchor is a couple feet to climber's left from the tree. We fixed a 70m rope and rapped in to the top of pitch 3. I am not sure if a 60m rope would make it in one rappel. There is a bolted anchor on top of pitch 4 you could rap to then down to the top of pitch 3. From here, it is a 60 m rappel to the next ledge. Trend hard to the left. You will rappel over the pitch 3 arch and get a good look at the crux. From the ledge, rappel 30 meters to a ledge pull the rope and start climbing.

Pitch 1, 5.10 R,

30 meters

. From the base of the rappel, walk 15 feet to the climber's left. Locate a weakness through the roof with a horn under the roof. Climb through the roof trending slightly left into a crack on the left. Then head up and slightly right into a horizontal. Follow the horizontal ledge system straight right until under a small roof/arete feature. Pull the roof at the bolt, and climb straight up patina edges to a ledge. Climb left to a short, left-facing corner. Go up the corner then straight right to a two bolt belay.

Pitch one rack: doubles from blue Master cam through #0.5 Camalot, a single set 0.75-4, and 10-12 slings and draws.

Pitch 2, 5.12a/b,

25 meters.

Face climb straight up off the belay passing a bolt. Pull into a left-facing corner, clip another bolt and some fixed wires, and launch into the crux. Continue up the corner to its end, make a hard move right at a bolt, and belay at one bolt and a fixed nut.

Rack: double in finger sizes up to #0.5 Camalot, a single set #0.75-2 Camalot, small nuts/brasses if the fixed nuts are gone, and 12 slings/draws.

Pitch 3, 5.12+, 30 meters. Head up and right from belay on good holds to a bolt out on the arete. Climb around the arete and into the arch. Pass two more bolts. You must be very thoughtful and keep your eyes open for holds. Power through the top of the arch and into a small, right-facing corner. Climb the corner and almost perfect hand crack for 40 or so feet. Clip a bolt, pull one more hard move, and reach the three bolt anchor.

Rack: a single rack green c3-#4 Camalot, doubles of #0.5 Camalot, nuts, and

four draws and 6 slings

.

Pitch 4, “The Skipper”, 5.12a/b,

50 meters

. This is a variation to the original line. The original line climbs the corner system up and left of the belay passing 3 or 4 bolts and lots of gear. We didn’t climb this pitch, but it looks cool and long. That climbs the obvious corner system on the right side of the belay ledge. Climb up and right of the ledge to a short, bolted arete that leads into the corner proper. Decipher the crux, and continue up the corner passing bolts along the way to a roof. Pull through the roof, and move up to a small Ledge. Continue up the corner to a two bolt anchor and ledge on the left. This is a variation to the original line.

Rack: a single rack blue Mastercam - #2 Camalot, nuts, and

16 slings and draws.

Pitch 5, 5.8, 10 meters. Climb straight up from belay passing some loose blocks, and go up through small roofs. Clip an anchor bolt, and continue over to the tree.

Rack: #0.5-4 Camalots.

This is below the west overlook of Pioneer Point.

A double rack from tiny cams (green C3) through #0.5 Camalots and singles #0.75-4.