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Peak Mountain 3

Leaning Wall Ridge

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Description

This adventure route follows up the obvious tiered ridge line of the Leaning Wall. Almost all belays are on large exposed ledges and have some of the best views in Zion. All fixed gear was placed prior to our ascent. A piece of cord was found as high as pitch 5. That in addition to the ridge being so easy and obvious, I have to assume the whole route had been climbed before in some manner or another.

Approach

Hike south from the Temple of Sinawava until reaching a large boulder the east side of the road, near the toe of the ridge.There are many different options for opening pitches on the ridge's south side. We did our best to take the best looking path.

P1

Climb up the orange hand crack, through a bush and onto a large ledge.

(5.10, 20m, 2 bolt anchor)

P2

Scramble up a boulder and traverse right across the large ledge. Climb up a black corner with an offwidth that slowly tappers. Belay at a chimney with scree and boulders.

(5.10, 25m, gear anchor)

P3

Move the belay deeper into the chimney. Climb straight up toward the large roof and break out right around it on the slabby face. Belay at slanting ledge right and under the roof.

(5.7, 20m, gear anchor)

P4

Follow up the fingers corner to some scrambling sections and another large ledge.

(5.8, 20m, gear anchor)

P5

Begins with a thin hand cracks to the ledge then an awkward mantle onto the highest pinnacle. Avoid the hollow flake immediately above and instead traverse the face left while aiming for a blind corner. Follow the corner for 15ft as it begins to taper. Then traverse out left again on techy face moves to a stance belay in a corner.

(30m, 5.10, gear anchor)

P6

Head left up the wide crack to double cracks in a left facing corner. Following the corner until it ends at a small ledge out right.

(25m, 5.8, gear anchor)

P7

Forest pitch. Climb up the short mossy face and then corner before reaching a huge forested ledge. Bushwack to the base of the wall and an obvious crack.

(25m, 5.8, gear anchor)

P8

Climb straight up the low angle crack until reaching the large slanted ledge.

(25m, 5.8, one bolt and .3 anchor)

P9-10

Finish as for

Vernal Equinox

Descent

Standard Leaning Wall raps

Protection

Double rack to 3, #4 and #5, 2 60m ropes