- Edit (TBD)
Description
(1) Climb a chimney for 40 feet to a ledge. Traverse left on the ledge and ascend the crack above (5.7)**. This crack is the left side of parallel chimney/cracks. When possible, move back right into the original crack and continue up turf to a belay at a small pine tree. (2) Scramble up and south over turf and boulders to the top of the buttress. (3) Move up through some steep orange caprock for an exposed finish (5.6).
** Tarantula VariationInstead of traversing left into the other crack, continue straight up (5.7+) until rejoining the standard route.
Descent: Move south 50 ft(?) and downclimb 15 feet to a ledge with a large tree. Two single rope rappels to the base.
Location
Near the north end of the Narrows. Mile 8.2 from the Sandstone Bluffs Overlook turnoff. The route ascends a set of parallel chimney cracks diagonalling left to right behind a buttress. Most easily seen travelling south.
Protection
Standard rack to 4" and slings.
Routes in El Malpais
- 14Surfin' the Turf5.7Trad