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Peak Mountain 3

Springboard

FA Matt Murphy
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Description

Sustained interesting face climbing around 5.10 a/b -- but one short sequence much harder. Worthwhile to plan to "yard through" the crux below the high horizontal ledge, save energy to enjoy all those other good moves below and above it.

Up a bit right of small tree, and keep trending a bit right up to high horizontal ledge. Perhaps another step right, the up and left to the top. . . Variation? Some climbers say they can make it all the way free if they traverse a ways left when they reach the crux sequence below the high horizontal ledge.

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree).

Location

On the face 10-12 ft left from the obvious wide vertical crack, just right of small tree.

    • see on this Photo

Protection

Not much protection for Trad leading.

The name of the route came from the idea of grabbing the curved trunk of the small tree behind and let its bending absorb the shock of fall -- in hope of not going to the ground if came off the rock.

For ideas to set up Top-Rope, see the Description of this D J E A sector.