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Peak Mountain 3

Jester

FA Dave Spies & Derek Field (2017)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Jester is a fun pitch broken by a big ledge into two parts: an overhanging splitter and a runout chimney.An overhanging thin-hands splitter feeds into the corner, followed by a crux layback to the big midway ledge. Wiggle up a fun easy chimney (no pro for the first half) past a roof/cap to the two-bolt chain anchor.

Location

Two-tiered right-facing corner 20 feet left of Mid-Evil Times.Directions: From just below the main saddle on the approach trail, cut left on a good climber's trail and follow it clockwise around the spire and naturally up to the middle of the south face. Scramble up a short 4th-class step up left onto the starting ledge. Continue left past Excalibur and Mid Evil Times to the end of the ledge where the route begins.

Protection

Double set cams to 3”Single 60m rope