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Peak Mountain 3

Wildflower

FA Bealor/Sirois 9/19/20
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Wildflower 5.10b G 70’ **A nice change of pace from the cracks and corners. Climbs edges on a vertical wall down low, has a balance traverse on slopers, and finishes with a series of 5.9 mantels/presses between good stances. Good climb to end a day on-this section of cliff gets late sun.P1 5.10b  Begin below the line of fixed pro, and mantle (.5 Camelot) onto a sloping ledge. Step up to the wall and face climb with unusual handholds and small feet to a small overlap. Make a balance traverse left 5’, using sloping holds, to a stance. Climb up (optional purple C3) to a series of mantles and presses. Finally, climb around a large (stable) block on it’s right (var. climb left around block done on TR, same difficulty) and up to a fixed anchor.70’ Var:  After the sloper traverse,  continue traversing another 8' left to a step up onto a clean slab. Then angle left across an easy slab to a fixed anchor (Variation is Yield, and it's independent climbing is 5.8)Note: lowering from this climb or the variation will shorten the life of your rope: best to counterbalance rap off your belayer's bodyweight or bring your follower up. 

Location

Start: 30’ left of a prominent left-angling crack system that becomes an obvious chimney up high ((Swamp Song).  There is a line of fixed pro that follows a somewhat vague open groove feature. Directly above, 70’ up, is a severely overhanging open book.

Protection

Gear: Rappel equipped, need .5 Camelot for start and optional purple C3 after balance traverse. Note: lowering from this climb will shorten the life of your rope: best to counterbalance rap off your belayers' bodyweight, or bring your follower up.