Paiute Pockets

This starts on about the lowest point of the Southern Wall of the Cleft on the right side of the wall. Pass by a "corridor" of rock and the bolted route starts on a small rise above the rock corridor.Pitch #1: Starts low angle and pocketed and then pass a well protected chossy roof and continue up until reaching the two-bolt belay "spike" ledge. 5.8/9, 35m, 13 bolts.Pitch #2: Delicate traverse to the right and into a steep pocketed water streak section that despite still a fair amount of moss, is very fun and unique. Belay at a semi-hanging two-bolt belay. 5.8, 30m, 12 bolts.Pitch #3: Straight up through yet again another wondrous pocketed section, then trend left following bolts and a bit of moss to the two-bolt belay at the "Giant Scoop". 5.7, 30m, 13 bolts.Pitch #4: Continue up the arete for a few 5.8 thin moves and turn the corner to much easier (5.5) pocketed lower angle climbing. The holds are huge! Pass the two-bolt belay to a giant ledge and essentially the end of the climbing, Two bolt belay.  5.7, 40m, 17 bolts.Pitch #5: Move 15m to the left into the cleft of rock and scramble up a few final moves to a two-bolt belay. 3rd class, 10m, 2 bolts.Follow cairns up the final slabs to the east and into the easy descent gully behind The Cleft. The route is also equipped for rappel but it is again more logical to walk off.  

Far right side of The West Face of the The Cleft. 

Mostly Glue In Bolts, all Stainless Steel. Well protected for the young and the old alike!