The Balrog

Start with your left hand on a sloping rail and your right hand on a good crimp sidepull. Get a high right foot and dyno for the slopey lip, then mantle over. This problem was originally climbed at V5, using the right hand side pull and a small left hand crimp up high. The crimp now appears to be broken off, making the dyno significantly longer and more difficult.

To the left of Bouloutian's Arête

2 pads