We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

Dreamland

FA Jean-Paul Finne, 1997
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Despite starting lower in the cave, this route is much less sustained than its left neighbor and feels quite a bit shorter. Starts out with good movement on beautiful but somewhat crumbly tufas. After a few straightforward pulls, some huge jugs are gained for a couple of easy clips and recovery. Immediately after leaving the last jug, there is a distinct boulder problem crux on much smaller sidepulls and underclings. Snatch the big underclings above and finish on the same moves as Dread on Arrival.The book gives this 12d/13a. The grade is mostly dependent on the short boulder problem in the crux section.

Location

Starts on tufas on the right face of the cave and ends above the corner.

Protection

6 bolts. All bolts and the anchors had draws hanging as of submission date. Shares the last bolt and anchors with Dread on Arrival.


Routes in Dreamland


  1. 2
    Dreamland
    5.12d
    Sport