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Peak Mountain 3

Orc 2

FA Aaron Miller
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Description

This route, given a grade of 11+ on the topo, features sustained crimping on pockets and edges up a short and very gently overhanging face.  The climbing gets a fair bit easier past the last bolt to the chains, but the rock quality deteriorates to consolidated kitty litter.  The grade felt reasonable at 11+ if one used the crack on the left side of the face for a couple of lay back moves. If the crack is completely avoided, it felt much harder, but if one makes full use of the crack, this is no harder than 10-.

Location

The left of two routes on a gently overhanging clean face across from Middle Earth proper.  This route is identified as Orc2 on the topo photo.

Protection

5 bolts to hangers with carabiners.