- Edit (TBD)
Description
The original route starts on the ledge, but a better version starts on "The Cricket" (5.6 twin cracks to the left) and traverses to the ledge. With small gear in the offset crack, climb face features to a 5.9 slab crux. Stand up to clip a bolt, then bust somewhat cryptic moves to a finishing jug at the top of the face. Cross the 5.0R slab, then layback the short splitter .5 crack to a ledge. A final 5.9 move guards the chains. You can also finish the route on the upper half of "The Shrew"(powerful, bouldery layback arete with bolts).
Location
From the Rattletale route, walk right and uphill 150 yards, following the base of the cliff and a faint climbers trail. The route is around the corner on an eastern facing wall.
Protection
2 bolts. single rack, micro cams to .75. Doubles in .5 protects the layback. Chain anchors with rap ring.
Routes in Rattletale Wall
- 17ze Squid5.10c/dTr · Trad