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Peak Mountain 3

Insane Orange Heaven (aka 666)

FA Aaron Davis, Will McConaughy, Ian Davis
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

P1) a couple of 5.9 moves gets you out of the pod and into the 5.8 right facing corner. Go to the tree up and left of the roof. 75’P2) has a couple of variations that start from the same spot but go in different directions 30’ up. We initially climbed the beautiful right angling crack to the belay ledge and then rapped down to do the other P2 variation that goes up the water stain, dike and heads thing. Variation 1) climb up past the tree and stem off boulder and main wall to clip the only bolt we placed. Pull around corner and head up and right. The beautiful crack angles up and right going around the corner. Mostly 5.7 but there are a few well protected 5.10 moves right at the end of the crack. Belay at tree. Many anchor options Variation 2) Share the start to pitch 2 until after you clip the bolt and pull past the corner.  Instead of continuing right,  head straight up the obvious dike to the ledge above. Plentiful chickenheads and plates begin to disappear the higher up into the streak you go.  A couple reachy moves wander you around the streak until gaining the ledge.  Overall, an easier variation to keep the climb closer to a consistent grade of 5.8. This pitch might be a little pg. P3) head straight up off the ledge for a short 5.8 section and head straight back to belay. Down climb or hop down, and then gain the boulder P4) step off the boulder onto the main wall. a couple of moves has you join the last pitch of 4 Course and climb 5.easy over the arch to the top of the formation 

Location

This route is between Paleface slab and the main wall that has 4 course on it. Leave the drainage shortly after passing the descent trail, well before the slick rock area where the 4 course trail is. Head up and right making your way thru the boulder field, heading towards the big west facing wall. Head up along the wall and scramble a little to the base under a tree and below the shallow right facing corner that makes up p1. 

Protection

Double rack to #4 and some smalls


Routes in Window Dome