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Peak Mountain 3

Fly'n The Spinnaker

FA Chris Thornley
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Description

While the climbing was enjoyable, especially around the third bolt, the rock quality and bolting makes this one worthy of a 'bomb'.

Immediately after clipping the first bolt I pulled two fist-sized chunks off the wall. Fortunately I had the foresight to not use either of these for the clip. This I can overlook.

After the broken band one is forced to climb above a ledge on abysmal rock. The bolt placement is such that should the climber fall due to poor judgement or a hold breaking he will hit the deck.

Lastly pulling the rope dislodged a massive stone that could have seriously injured anyone standing below. My belayer and I were lucky to have not been hit.

In my opinion this route should undergo further cleaning and the bolting should be reconsidered. I am open to other opinions.

Location

This route is the third from the right; between "Nitrous Oxide" and "Gettin' My Fix". It starts just right of a small tree.

Protection

8 bolts to anchors.