Free at Last

This route climbs the prominent V-dihedral high on the wall, 20 feet right of

Leave No Trace

.

Start from the trail, directly below the dihedral, and just left of a cedar tree that's about 50 feet above the trail. Climb up slabby rock steps, placing gear and passing one bolt, to the base of the steep dihedral. The climbing in this initial section is mostly easy, with perhaps one 5.6-5.7 move along the way. There are some runouts on easy ground getting to the crux dihedral.

Clip a bolt on the left wall of the dihedral and prepare for "the business". The third bolt (second bolt in the dihedral) is the crux. Move to your right on the face to avoid the sand bag in the corner on the left. High-quality technical moves with a counter-intuitive "down-move" brings you to a key sharp quartzite intrusion. The top dihedral is worth 3.5 stars but is downrated due to the easy start.

Lower from an anchor at the top of the dihedral (70 m rope required). There is no stance at this anchor; it is meant for lowering only. It might be possible to lower with a 60m rope if you scramble up to a shelf about 20' above the trail, and belay from here.

If you only have a 60m rope and want to belay from the top, continue up another 20 feet to the anchor atop the second pitch of

Like a Wonk

. Belay from here on a decent ledge. From this higher anchor, two rappels will get you back down. Do the first rappel to the anchor on

Botonga

/

Leave No Trace

. From here, rappel to the ground.

This route starts about 20 feet right of

Leave No Trace

and just left of a big cedar tree that's about 50 feet above the trail. The objective is the prominent V-dihedral above and left of the cedar tree.

BEWARE: A 70 m ROPE IS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED.

Green Camalot (0.75), bolt, Grey Camalot (0.4), Blue Camalot (0.3), 3 bolts, two-bolt top anchor.

Long runner at the last gear placement is advisable, or unclip the last gear placement after clipping the left-wall second bolt.