- Edit (TBD)
Description
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Climb the groove 5.2, into a 4th class ramp, follow this and then some dirty climbing up on a large ledge and build an anchor in the thin finger crack in the middle of the ledge.
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Climb directly up above the belay until a delicate rising right traverse (no pro) allows a good crack to be gained. Follow this, until you can scramble under a tree onto a ledge and belay.
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Follow the ledge left and then climb good cracks up to a hanging bolt belay. This is the first of 3 good pitches. (Note: On a crowded day, link pitches 3+4 and build your own anchors to let descending parties pass safely.)
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Continue up the crack system until an obvious step right can be made where the cracks continue up to the belay.
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This last pitch is a good one. This climb saves it very best to the very last few moves. Climb up until a nice finger crack allows progress up and onto the belay.
Descent is via Rappel with a 70m Rope:
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P5 anchors -> P4 anchors
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P4 anchors -> P3 anchors
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P3 anchors -> Slung tree (15 feet left and 20 feet below the huge belay ledge)
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Slung tree -> Intermediate bolts ~50 feet off the deck (If you have an 80m, this will get you to the ground)
5 Bolts -> Dirt.
Location
Located on the left hand side of the Royal Arches Area. 200' up and left from Serenity Crack.
Protection
standard Trad rack 1-2 sets nuts, 1-2 sets cams.
Routes in Western Royal Arches
- 1Super Slide5.9Trad