Aeolian Wall (Original Route)

A historic and bold route for its time, the Aeolian Wall remains a seldom climbed testpiece of Red Rock climbing. Despite being one of the parks oldest routes it has seen only a handful of ascents over the 35 years since it was established. One can only imagine what Hamilton and Herbst must have been thinking going up this foreboding wall in a time before cams & high angle rescues.

The adventure aficionado will enjoy a route much unchanged from those times. A few bold & spectacular aid pitches on mostly solid rock eventually give way to more moderate but varied climbing above. Rock quality varies significantly but is generally of decent quality. This odyssey through the bowels of lady Wilson is an experience few undertake but rewards those who endure with an unforgettable experience that no pullout climb can provide.

Approach Just up the gulley from the Resolution Arete the approach requires climbing up a mossy crack on the left-hand side of a water-streaked slab. Climb this crack to a small shrub and then move left on easier terrain to reach the large ledge system below the route. Continue back right up ramps to the base of the unmistakable vertical wall with the large left facing corner.

Pitch 1 5.9 120ft Climb flakes in the corner past some loose rock near the corner to a new looking 2 bolt anchor. (Old threaded slings nearby)

Pitch 2 5.9 A2 150ft From the anchor, move right to the chimney climbing past a star-drive bolt. Free climb and aid the chimney and taking a nice crack leading onto the right face. Belay at a stance with hand sized gear about 20ft below a bolt above.

Pitch 3 5.9 A3 190ft Continue up the corner past a bolt into a knifeblade seam. At the roof move right on 4 original bolts and then continue out the roof on knifeblades (A3 exciting and airy). Pull the lip, clip another ancient bolt and continue up 5.9/A1 cracks to a claustrophobic chimney with fixed bong in back.

Pitch 4 - 5.8 - 110ft Continue out the chimney and up cracks to the Crotch ledge. Good bivy for 3+.

Pitch 5 - 5.8 - 195ft Take a chimney that moves up & angles left into a slab. Climb the slab past a bolt to a cool cave-like ledge. Good bivy for 4+.

Pitch 6-7 - 5.8 - 220-260ft Take yet another nice chimney above with sparse protection to a ledge.

Pitch 7 - 5.8 - 190ft From the ledge climb a small step through bushes and up a 4-6 inch crack. At a convenient point traverse right into the next gulley system over (Lots of options).

Pitch 8-9 - 5.9 - 100-250ft Move up the gulley system through a series of ledges and chimneys to reach a saddle (near Resolution Arete). Belay from trees/bushes.

Pitch 10-13 - 3rd class Turn right (west) and move up generally the left side of the rock towers near the top to gain the summit ridge.

Descent: Take Oak or First Creek descents

Approach is same as resolution arete except continue up the gulley. A mossy 5.9 crack must be surmounted to achieve the large ledge system leading to the base of the route.

A standard rack of doubles to #3 camalot, 1 x #4, 1 x #5, Nuts - 1 set, 3 lost arrows, 1-2 angles, 6-9 knifeblades, optional - 1 hook, Offset cams/nuts