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From the Malloy book: "climb flakes and cracks to the chimney system on the left. Continue up broken chimney system to the anchors."
I would suggest it's a full body workout with some hand, fist, OW, rounded edges, chimney, and face all wrapped up into one strenous & sustanined pitch. The last 15' is the crux with crumbly, rounded holds until you can get the locker-hand-jam and dish to pull onto the ledge. (It is best to plan yer lead head at 9+.)
Location
This is on the far right side of the Second Buttress, 10' left of
Journey through Gandawandaland
. It shares the same chain anchors. Rap to the right to reach the upper ledge at 60m, then 4th-class scramble down 30' more.
Protection
Full double rack.
Routes in Second Buttress
- 8Whatever5.8+Trad