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Peak Mountain 3

Planet Y

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Description

Climb the heavily featured crack until it dies out, where a combination of sidepulls and grainy edges gains a bolt which protects a long move to a visibly flexing flake the size of a hardcover book...gingerly pull down and not out on the flake and make the final moves to the anchors.

A fun climb with some intricate movement that's easily toproped from the anchors if you don't feel like leading it. Worth doing if only to witness firsthand the amazing elasticity of the local quartz monzonite as evidenced by the fragile, flexing flake. One star out of five.

Location

This route is on the west face and climbs a crack to face leading directly to the rappel anchors for the formation.

Protection

Gear to 3 inches, 1 bolt (5/16"), bolted anchor/rap (3/8")