Sunset Slab Direct

This is a slightly more interesting version of the Sunset Slab route. Start the same as the normal route: go up the short corner and set up the first belay on the ramp up and to the right. Where the second pitch starts to bear left toward the belay ledge, continue straight up and belay on a small stance in the varnished rock. The third pitch goes straight up the center of the buttress and directly over the varnished headwall (instead of bypassing on the left like the standard route). After another pitch of good slab climbing, the standard route is joined where it moves right onto the final rib.

This is a worthwhile variation to the normal route. It is a little more sustained and a little less protected, but not any more difficult technically.

std rack