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Peak Mountain 3

Five Finger Discount

FA Chris, Andra, and Gavin Jones 2012
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Run-out trad climb with just enough pro to keep the adventure reasonable for the experienced technician

Location

Uphill from powerline poles there is an obvious steep slab (just under vertical). Wander up to a right facing pancake flake and place a cam at the bottom of the flake. After that it gets heady. Move up and right from the flake. into a shallow right facing corner with good but thin pro. Trend left of rotten rock and traverse left 10 feet into vertical finger crack system that meets a shallow right facing dihedral at a small roof. Super classic finger jamming here! Continue straight up then step right into splitter offwidth and click double chain anchors (painted, difficult to see). If you have a 70m rope then lower or if 60m you will need to belay from top then rappel (unless you put webbing on chains and belay high on the hill).

Protection

Full rack with lots of medium sized cams and nuts and a few larger camalots (#2-3)